A sparkling, clear swimming pool is inviting on a hot summer's day, but if the water quality is poor, the pool will sicken -- instead of refresh -- its users. For that reason, swimming pool owners need to be diligent about properly maintaining their pools. Part of this maintenance includes changing the pool water when needed. How often this is varies, but in general, pool water should be changed every two to three years.
You don’t want your pool filter pressure to get above 20 PSI, which can cause damage to the filter.  Maintaining the proper functioning of the filter is important with periodic backwashing and cleaning the filter when appropriate.
 You probably did not keep a proper level of sanitizer in the pool and allowed algae growth.  Another reason we see often is the use of city or town drinking water added to pools, which has phosphates.  Phosphates are a great food source for algae.  Bring in a water sample so we can test and diagnose the problem.
A strong chlorine smell, contrary to what may seem logical; often means chlorine needs to be added. High levels of chloramines emit a strong chlorine smell, and chloramines form when chlorine interacts with introduced contaminants, like sweat and body oil. In this scenario, chlorine needs to be added to sanitize the water and get rid of the chloramines.
Improper pH Balance
Chlorine is a chemical added to swimming pools to kill bacteria that can build up over time and lead to a discoloration of the water. Green water is most often a sign of algae, not necessarily bacteria, but different pools have different bacteria that can affect the water. If the pH balance of the water isn’t in the right place, it will allow bacteria to flourish, leading to further discoloration. If the pH level is too low, the water is acidic and over time, it will erode plastic and metal components. A pH level that is too high will not kill bacteria and will allow scale buildup of calcium and other minerals. A healthy pool is between 7.2 and 7.8 on the pH scale.
Clogged Filter
Not all water-color issues are the fault of the water itself. For example, a filter system that isn’t working properly won’t strain out the surface algae and other debris. If left to stagnate, your pool will become a breeding ground for mold, algae and other fungi that will eventually change the color of the water. Pool filters are designed to be cleaned with buckets, baskets and filter systems that are easily disassembled. If your filter is clogged and causing a backup of color-changing water issues, clean the filter. Most pools have a system where you can simply remove the filter, clean it with water and a scrub brush, then replace it. Different pools have different filters, so always follow the manufacturer's instructions for removal and replacement of parts.
Algae thrives in warm, humid temperatures. Normal chlorine may not be enough to counter the buildup of algae within a pool, but there are special algaecides sold which are specifically designed to work against those extra-tough algae in the warmer months, when it is more prone to spread. If the pH level of your pool is good but you still have green issues, it is the result of algae buildup and the pool needs an extra dose of algae remover. Different brands have different instructions for use, but you should always start with a minimal dose and increase it, as needed.
Shock Treatment
Shock treatment is a temporary solution used when there are excessive levels of algae and other buildup in a pool which are keeping the water green or discolored, even when you are trying to keep the pH balance in check. The only solution in this case is to “shock” the pool, which involves treating the pool with a large dose of chlorine and algaecide. Allow the pool to sit for 24 hours to kill off the algae and bacteria. After 24 hours, you can clean the pool and restore the pH for continued use.
Ongoing Maintenence
The best remedy for a discolored pool is regular maintenance. This means vacuuming the bottom of the pool regularly, scrubbing the walls and vacuuming them, skimming the surface to remove debris, regularly cleaning the filter system, regularly checking the pH level and adding more chlorine. You should also add algaecides, as necessary. Pool maintenance is a full-time job that requires daily focus to keep the water crystalline and enjoyable. For best results, check the water on a daily basis to keep algae and other bacteria-related issues from becoming a problem.


Here is a quick list of the steps involved in opening an inground swimming pool:

  • Remove, clean, fold and store winter pool cover.
  • Test water balance; adjust calcium, alkalinity and pH levels
  • Replace winter stored items; ladders, auto cleaner, baskets, plugs, gauges, etc.
  • Inspect and test electrical service to pumps, lights, heaters, etc.
  • Lube valves and o-rings. Wrap threaded plugs with new thread sealant.
  • Flood lines, prime-up pump, start-up motor and adjust valves for proper flow.
  • Brush tiles and scrub skimmers with phosphate-free cleanser.
  • Blow off, then hose off the pool deck (or wash with buckets of chlorinated pool water)
  • Skim pool surface. Vacuum pool to waste if algae is present.
  • Super chlorinate to breakpoint levels with liquid or granular chlorine.
  • Brush pool walls and steps. Re-check chemical levels in 12-24 hrs, adjust as needed.
  • Backwash filter when pressure gauge rises 8-10 lbs, or flow diminishes considerably.
When the bathing season is over and winter is coming on, you need to check your pool and its equipment. Precisely when to do this depends partly on where the pool is geographically and partly on the way the pool is used. Below some tips on what to do when the bathing season is over. Check whether the structure of your pool can withstand the water freezing. Under certain circumstances the surface of the water must be insulated and circulation must be maintained.
  1. Brush down the sides of the pool and vacuum the pool thoroughly to make sure that it is really clean.
  2. Backwash the filter thoroughly for 3 to 5 minutes. Then set the backwash valve lever to FILTER.
  3. Switch off the electric power at the mains (fuse box).
  4. If there is a pool ladder, take it out, wipe it off and store it in a dry place.
  5. Remove the filter basket and flap lid from the skimmer. Then install an expansion flask or pieces of cellular plastic where the filter basket was located. These will take up the expansion of ice.
  6. Remove the adjustable inlet nozzles (the balls). If the pump/filter unit is below the water level, install winter plugs where the inlet nozzles were removed.
  7. Remove the lighting unit and store it in a plastic bag on the edge of the pool.
  8. Drain the filter tank by unscrewing the drain plug in the bottom of the tank.
  9. Remove the pump cover and take out the filter basket. Remove the drain plugs from the pump housing and the pre-filter housing. If the pump is outdoors, the motor should be removed and stored indoors.
  10. Remove the pressure gauge on the backwash valve of the filter.
  11. If the heater is not in a frost-free location, remove the drain plug. If there is no drain plug, disconnect the pipe coupling between filter and heater, so that all water is drained from the heater.
  12. Add anti-algal agent as recommended on the pack.
  13. Shock-chlorinate by dissolving calcium hypochlorite in a bucket of warm water and tipping it into the pool.
  14. If the pool has steps, provide something around the steps to take up expansion which will shrink when the ice moves, reducing any strain on the steps. This could be a few plastic containers partly filled with a mixture of water and antifreeze (glycol), held in place with a weight.
  15. Place your pool cover over the pool.
Algaecide is a chemical treatment for swimming pools, fish ponds, and other water features that kills algae, very small organisms that grow in water or very damp environments. Algae in pools and ponds can cause the water to become cloudy and, in some cases, can form a scum over the surface that blocks sunlight from the water. It is the cause of the peculiar "red tide" phenomenon, in which the ocean appears to be covered in blood. Usually, their presence unsightly, but it can also be dangerous — certain kinds of algae give off toxins that can be hazardous to humans, fish, and plants.
A commercial algaecide is a quick and easy way to remove algae from your pool or pond. When it's used in a swimming pool, it allows the owner to use less chlorine for water purification, resulting in water than is more pleasant to swim in, without the stinging eyes and nose that too much chlorine can cause. Regular use also prolongs the life of the water filtration system, as there is less plant material to clog the filters and intakes of the pump.
Routine shock treatment is necessary to destroy water contaminates that reduce the efficiency of the disinfectant or sanitizer. Contaminates like hair spray, suntan oil, cosmetics and other organic materials react with chlorine and cause eye or skin irritations and an unpleasant chlorine odor. Most often pools are inaccurately accused of having too much chlorine when this problem is present.
The pH is a measure of the acidity of the water. The pH scale goes from 0 to 14, where pH 7 is neutral. If the pH is above 7, the water is basic; if it is below 7 the water is acid. The optimum pH for pool water is 7.4, since this is the same as the pH in human eyes and mucous membranes. A pH of 7.4 also gives good chlorine disinfection.
A low pH gives:
- aggressive water, which damages the mechanical components of the pool
- irritations of the eyes and mucous membranes
- damage to the pool liner
A high pH gives:
- poorer chlorine disinfection
- skin irritation
- lime precipitation
- cloudiness
Assuming that the total alkalinity level is correct, we adjust the pH according to the results of the pH test. Most better test kits have an acid demand test, which allows you to calculate the amount of acid to add in order to correct the pH. You generally need to know the volume of the pool to calculate the quantity required.
In general, the pH of pool water tends to rise. This is a result of chlorination, swimmer's wastes (sweat, urine, . . .) and nature's tendency to balance the pH of standing water at about 8.5 .
High pH can be reduced with an acid. The most common pool acids are:
  • liquid hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) and
  • dry acid (sodium bisulphate).
Extreme care must be taken when adding acid to the pool, as negligence can result in serious burns. Before adding the acid, be sure there are no swimmers in the water and that the pump is running. You will need a plastic bucket to mix the acid in.
Always add acid to water; never add water to acid! 3/4 fill the bucket with water from the pool. Add the acid to the bucket and pour it slowly around the deep end of the pool. If you are adding a large quantity of acid, do it in stages - DON'T add large amounts of acid to the pool at one time. Allow the pump to circulate the water for at least 4 hours and then test the pH again. A pH reading of 7.0-7.6 is required, with 7.2 being the ideal level.
If you add too much acid to the pool at one time, you risk etching the walls, corroding the pipes and pump fittings and you lower the total alkalinity of the water.
Low pH is increased with an alkali - this is most commonly soda ash (sodium carbonate). The amount of sodium carbonate required to raise the pH can be obtained from our soda ash calculator.


4 Ways How to Add Chlorine to Your Pool
  1. In a chemical floater
  2. To your skimmer(s)
  3. In an automatic chlorinator
  4. Sprinkle chlorine granules directly to the water
Testing your pool 2-3 times a week during the summer and once a week during the winter is important to maintain adequate water balance and sanitizer levels plus to insure swimmer comfort. Test strips are a quick way to test the pool for adequate sanitizer levels as well as pH and total alkalinity. Proper testing also ensures that calcium levels are maintained and that there are no metals present in the pool water. These tests can be completed by you or your pool professional. In order to prevent scaling or corrosive action and to achieve maximum swimmer comfort, the pool water should be balanced to the following levels:
The Main Factors that affect the chemical balance of the water are:
  • The water's natural balance
  • The filtering frequency
  • Water Temperature
  • Water exposure to the sun
  • Water pollution, number of swimmers
Weekly Pool Maintenance:
  • Remove any large accumulation of debris on the bottom with a leaf scoop.
  • Feed the pool with chlorine or other sanitizer to satisfy its requirements either manually or automatically.
  • Check that the water level is high enough for the pump to operate correctly.
  • Test and adjust sanitizer level (may require more frequent testing depending upon bather load and environmental conditions)
  • Visually inspect pool water for clarity, color and visible contaminants
  • Remove floating leaves
  • Test and adjust pH (may require more frequent testing depending upon bather load and environmental conditions)
  • The pH should be in the range 7.4 – 7.7 if the pool has a vinyl or tile finish.  
  • The range should be 7.3 -7.5 if the pool has a fiberglass finish.
  • The range should be 7.4-7.6 for a gunite swimming pool.
  • If the level is too high, then adjust it down using pH decreaser. The correct dosage is located on the labelf the pH is too low, then add pH increaser. Again see labels for dosage. If the pH has dropped possibly so has your total alkalinity.
  • Test chlorine levels in the pool water:
  • Free chlorine levels should be between 1-3 ppm
  • Free bromine levels should be between 3-5 ppm
  • Test and adjust Alkalinity
  • Test and adjust Oxidizer and Stabilizer levels
  • Clean the tile at the water line
  • Check filter pressure and backwash only if required
  • Check water level and adjust as necessary at the prescribed rate of 1” (25mm) per hour
  • Add a preventative dose of algaecide as necessary
  • >Shock the pool as per label instructions. This treatment restores the sparkle to the pool water and destroys germs and organic contaminants (can be done once every 2 weeks)
Monthly Pool Maintenance:
  • Test and adjust Calcium Hardness
  • Test and adjust for Total Dissolved Solids
  • Test the total alkalinity, which should be in the range of 120-150 ppm.
  • Chemically clean the filter
  • Visually inspect tile, grout, sealant, and other exposed elements of pool
  • Conduct Langelier Saturation Index evaluation and adjust as necessary
  • Test your salt levels if you have a saltwater pool.
  • If you have a vinyl liner – check for holes and tears and make any needed repairs as soon as possible.
  • If you have a concrete, gunite pool or fiberglass pool, check for cracks.
  • Check the seals in your motor and pump.
  • Check all handrails, steps and other safety equipment to be sure that it’s in proper working order.


Ideally you should keep your swimming pool water level between one third and one half the way up the opening of the swim pool skimmer. This is the level at which the swimming pool skimmers operate most efficiently.
If the level is higher than half way up, the water moving into the skimmer is going so slow that debris may pass by the opening without being pulled in. If the pool water is so high that it covers the skimmer opening, floating debris can't get in.
If the water is too low the skimmer can bottom out, thereby sucking air into the system which can result in losing the prime (water moving through the system) and possibly result in burning up your swim pool filter pump motor.
There are a number of practical considerations to bear in mind when choosing an air conditioner:
  • Do you live in rented accommodation? If so, consider air conditioning that does not require any installation such as a fan or a portable air conditioner.
  • Consider the size of the space you are trying heat or cool before purchasing an AC system. Mismatching the space to the AC may deliver either unsatisfactory results or wasted energy.
  • Do you need to cool your home in the summer and heat it in the winter? If so, consider reverse cycle air conditioning for year round climate control.
To ensure you are shopping for an air conditioner according to the right criteria, it is important to understand a few key terms:
  • Reverse Cycle: An air conditioner with both heating and cooling capabilities.
  • Inverter: Inverter air conditioners deliver a constant airflow for improved temperature regulation and increased energy efficiency.
  • Smart AC: Smart air conditioners connect to your home network so you can control and monitor their output through an app on compatible mobile devices.
Air conditioning capacity is measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs) and output power is measured in kW. Efficiency is classified using a star system where the more stars a unit has, the more efficient it is.
  • As a general rule, an air conditioner needs at least 80 watts of power per square metre in the room.
  • Reverse cycle air conditioners usetwo kW values: the first for cooling capacity and the second for heating.
  • A unit’s efficiency is given as a star-rating and established by determining the ratio of power input to cooling and heating capacity.
Split system air conditioners are generally considered to be the most effective of all the home air conditioning types. They consist of two units, one of which is installed outside the home, the other inside.
  • Generally, split system air conditioning units tend to be quieter, more powerful and more efficient than the alternatives. They are ideal for anyone looking to cool larger rooms or even an entire residence.
  • Split system air conditioners also tend to include additional features such as built-in WiFi to air ionisers and motion sensors, which increase air quality and efficiency respectively.
  • It's important to have split system AC installed by a professional, so factor these costs into your budget before making a purchase. As such, they are only likely to be suitable for home owners.


Room Size m2 Suggested BTU
9 - 13 7000
13 - 18 9000
18 - 25 12000
25 - 30 14000
30 - 35 16000
35 - 40 18000
40 - 45 20000
45 - 55 22000
55 - 65 24000


Installation Tips
Before installing room air conditioners, check your home wiring for the right circuit amperage and voltage. Avoid lines already loaded with appliances. Never remove the grounding prong from the plug. Install the unit in a shaded window, if possible. Keep warm air out by weather stripping doors and windows and keeping them tightly closed. Close fireplace dampers and seal openings to the attic or other uncooled areas. Seek professional advice on recommended ceiling and wall insulation.
Energy Efficiency Tips
  • Turn off the unit and open doors and windows during cooler periods.
  • Use the unit fan and portable fans to draw in cooler outside air and increase circulation. 
  • Although air conditioners also dehumidify, a dehumidifier in the basement can prevent excess moisture seepage through the house. 
  • Use a higher (warmer) thermostat setting during peak periods or when the area is unoccupied. A setting of 22 to 26 degrees will cut power consumption by 15 percent. 
Maintenance Tips
  • Regularly change or clean filters, and check air flow for blockage and evaporator coil for frost. 
  • Use a vacuum cleaner attachment to clean accessible parts but be careful not to damage them. 
  • Have the unit checked and cleaned at the start of the season. During the off season, make certain it is cleaned and properly covered and disconnected.

The maintenance of the aircondition is very important for more efficient function. The right and periodicaly maintenance reduces the chance of a serious damage and also reduces the energy cost.

The short it can be said that inverter aircon are more precise. Non inverter AC provides a fix heating or cooling by a fixed power with the compressor running at a fixed speed. The compressor has to start and stop when required. On the other hand inverter aircon have a controllable compressor that provides the exact amount of heating and cooling as needed. So, in terms of efficiency and precision, inverter air conditioners are much better.

  • Less concumption
  • Lower noise levels
  • More efficient on keeping steady the desired temperature.
  • Insulation of the airconditioning room.
  • Frequent filter cleaning
  • Avoidance of using devices that produce heat.

There is not a recommended time limit, but at high temperature it is advised that you should take a break after 15 minutes. Always remember to stay hydrated by drinking lots of water.

Τhere are specific Elixirs designed for Hydropas that do not affect the water balance.

There are researches that prove that lots of dangerous substances of water are responsible for some diseases.

The replacements lifetime depends on:

  • The water flow rate
  • The water clearance
  • The pore size of filter

The lifetime of the replacement shortens when :

  • The water that passes through the filter per day is a lot.
  • The water is dirty .
  • The pore of this part is small.

As long as the replacement absorbs the dirt, the pores are filled and is more difficult for the water to pass through.

The water filters appart from the procedure of reverse osmosis do not remove the water salts. But they prevent the salts to incrustate on the pipes and the devices.

Yes you use common filters in more than one apartments, but you have to choose larger filter.